The hike to our bivouac was suppose to take 2 to 3 hours. An exposed knife edge ridge turned it into 6. I thought for sure we were lost only to find the bivouac, a glorified portaledge, bolted to the side of the cliff. I guess this is their way of crowd control over here. Sleeping was pretty much useless. I have never slept this high and with Mont Blanc out the front door cleaning itself every ten minutes the energy was like nothing I have felt before.
We dropped into the abyss at 3AM and hopes were high. We had given the face an extra day to set up because it was more loaded from the last storm then expected. The forecast was for clear skies but it was wrong. The night was not cold and clear and the mountains had not locked up like we needed them to. By 5 AM we were at our point of no return. As much as we wanted to push on it was clear things were too warm. This was confirmed by the distant sound of snow or ice crumbling down the mountain.
With colder temps in the forecast we retraced our steps and headed to lower ground. Our three days of dealing left us empty handed but our hopes are high for another attempt in a few days.
We were late getting to this face. It was loaded and warm so we waited 2 hours for it to cool down before hiking it.
Xavier works his way up the knife edge ridge to the hut.
Fan Fan belays Tero to his home for the night.
The bivouac. We came from behind the ridge and left. To ride we would rappel off the deck.
Can you see the bivouac?
Xavier, Matt Heriger and myself take in the view.
Scoping our route to the peak. We will have to cross under multiple seracs to get to the base of the climb. This is our last island of safety before dropping into one of the craziest palces I have seen on earth.
Heading back to the bivouac.
Xavier moments from safety.
These afternoon clouds never cleared at night so the overnight lows were to warm. This is the view from the deck. Peirre Tardivel skied the lookers left hanging snowfield. He rappelled the cliff in the middle. He is on his own planet when it comes to the steeps over here.
Rappelling at 3AM. No coffee needed to wake up.
- The route up. It was hard to leave this behind but it was the right call.
???? holy moly!
Nuts.
You guys have Patience….Xtreme-Patience. gnarly..
Wow - that place is nuts! Good work Jemery - hope you get another shot at it.
Nice accommodations. When and how was that hut build, and why?
It’s like looking at a huge rock face and say “hmm I think I will build a hut in the most difficult place to climb”
This is beyond crazy. You guys are destroying the limits of split boarding at this point.
Keep safe JJ.
insane, that hut is off the charts, i’m speechless.
“Bivouac”. Ha!
The hut was built 50 years ago by the Italians. We think it was easier to get to then, more snow, less rocks, bigger glacier, etc. It is just a guess though.
Does that peak have a proper name? Part of the Mount Blanc massif on the Italian side? Just trying to track it down on the good’ole google earth:)
Love the blog, keep it up.
i feel you man, beutiful trip.
Those photos are insane, I hope you get it…I want to see the shots.
wow this makes me undepressed
Live to do it again another day. Way to play it safe!..and I LOVE THIS BLOG! Cannot wait to see DEEPER. Thanks Jeremy
Devin, it’s called Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey. Funny thing, the rightmost of its three peaks is called Pointe Jones.
Jeremy, I hope everything comes together. Take care.
sicktar!
so much stoke !
thanks for making deeper!
jah bless!
Hey Jeremy,
Seems like some awesome trips. I am a friend of Newsomes and was psyched when he joined you in Alaska, those lines looked aesthetic, not as wild as the european lines you are riding now though.
You ever come to Canada, I film HD and have tons of energy to hike around and film your crew.
keep it safe
greg hill
Greg,
I am a huge fan of yours. BC is in the plans next season. I would love to get out there with you. I will keep you posted.
NOTE TO READERS. CHeck out Greg’s site at http://greghill.squarespace.com/
He is one of the hardest charging backcountry skiers in the world.
Great blog!!! Keep it coming!!!
Thanks Mathias. Point Jones you say - thats awesome
Jesus H. Christ, man! Jesus H.
I showed this to some non-snowboarding co-workers and you should have seen the looks on their faces. Priceless.
Hey, this is North Face of Aguille Blanche de Petereuy (last pic) and Grand Pillier d’Angle wit some Bonatti Routes going through (Hanging Galcier Pic) right?
You know, that you are doing lines which are routes that, if you climb them, would make a recognized alpinist out of you? Even normal routes on these peaks are considered “HARD”.
RESPECT!
nice holidays !
What a very pleasant hotel with a stunning view !
You guys are crazy, and hopefully alive